Tu-bliss

[erniebearskin]

I've done some searching and see lots of mixed reviews, most negative reviews I read are from 2011 earlier. Does anyone have experience with the Gen2 Tubliss system. Is it worth it? Most people who love them, really seem to love them.

[giantjoe]

I bought one for the rear and tried to install it on used rubber. It failed. Didn't ever get enough seal to hold any air. I'll try it again when I get a new tire. The concept seems solid.

[KanadianIceMan]

you must use slime or stans sealant. 100-200ML- when done PROPERLY, they work quite well and allow for some very cool tire/pressure combinations.

be wary, if you get a tire slice or sidewall slice it WILL lose pressure, however if you use a very stiff tire the sidewall at 110PSI will make the tire quite ride-able and wont lose bead.

a Heavy duty tube works well and can be repaired on the trail, weighs a bit more and can also do lower PSI pressures, but CAN be pinched or get a hole with say barbed wire.

tubliss on the front is pretty nice, defelctions are WAY down and ride is nicer at say 8psi. but do keep pressure up a bit on the front to prevent rolling

[Grimlock]

I run them on the front and rear of my GasGas. I can honestly say that I am now a convert to the Tubliss system. Changing tires on the rear is far easier than with a tube. The front can pose a bit of a challenge though. I run very low tire pressures on both ends and really like the way they feel.

Running tire sealant is not necessary if the install is done properly but the inner bladders are slightly permeable and require frequent checking and topping up to 110psi. I have run as low as 70psi in the inner bladder (cheap portable compressor crapped out) without issue, but would not recommended it.

I am converting my Kawasaki over after the winter riding season is over.

[Bark]

I like the system and use it front/rear. But, I don't ride as hard as some folks do.

So far, I have had one flat on the front but didn't notice until I was at the truck. Don't know when it happened during the ride. Must have happened close to the truck.

I check inner bladder pressure every ride and set pressure between 100-110psi. I picked up a bicycle tire pressure gauge for that. As noted above, the inner bladders do leak down. Front is worse than rear but the new generation may be better. I don't know if there is a difference on the new generation for the rear or not. But, the front rim lock is narrower than the earlier production models to suit the width of the tire.

As per the user manual, I use silicon spray lubricant on the seal skin. It makes a big difference in my opinion.

I started using them with my 530 and I could definitely feel a difference in maneuverability. Its easier to toss around.

My two cents.

Aaron

[axel99]

They work well front and rear. Check the inside wall of the tire for any bits of lets over rubber from the manufacture process before mounting. I have always had good luck running tubliss with a MAXXIS IT tire. If you like to manhandle your tires during mounting you will likely create some roughness and things will seal but may leak down over a couple days. You will need to get in the habit to check your tires before every ride. Alot of hard core racers use mousses, expensive but you cant get a flat. I usually run 12psi front and 8 psi rear, anything less in the front and the tire seems to roll over to much for my liking.

[dirtyboy]

When did they start making the Gen 2?

I've read that the Gen 2 is red on outside and orange on inside, unlike the earlier red with black inside. Not sure what version I actually have but probably the old ones.

[malcolmzilla]

Tubliss on my dual sports. Bibs in the bush bike tho. Mostly so as to not have to carry spoons, plugs, CO2, etc.

4 front punctures last Baja trip , slap a plug in, tire still on bike, add air and go. With tubes it would have been miserable. At speed I believe the tires run cooler without the tire to tube friction. With slime the Tubliss is nearly balanced (no weights). Low pressure advantages of no pinch flats. On the KTM I now have a "d" shaped rear rim and the Tubliss still holds.

Tips:

Trim the mold "nib's" off the liner, leak points. Use (a lot of) slime 300-400ml rear, 200-300 front, slime also will brightly highlight leak points. Stans is too much $$$. Slime can be scooped out of a used tire and put into a new one with a bit of top up water and make up Slime. Inflate the inner bladder before tightening the rimlock. Check the high pressure valve core for leaks: cheap ones seem to deform the gasket if over torqued. The high pressure rubber bladder will always leakdown a bit, top it up weekly. CO2 cartridges will get the bladder to ~80 psi trailside, good enough. The bladders fail on me after about 2 years, always right by the valve stem a tear... Carry spares, change 'em out, like ~$12