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Here's a few pics of installation under the expert guidance of 787...
The clutch side with elecltical tape wraped to help glue stick, we removed it later...
Drilling holes through the lip of the throttle tube to run wires through so they arent stressed as much at their weakest point. We joined the two hales to make one bigger hole later.
Loop, coming off the throttle, looks vulnerable to me... Guess I'll have to stop blowing corners...
For those installing this type of heater, you might want to insulate the heater from the bar.
I have had great luck with 1" shrink tube. First I spray a lacker paint on the end of the bar then slide on the shrink tube and shrink it to the bar. I found that grip glue didn't work as well as paint between the bar and shrink tube.
Once the tube has been shrunk. Install the heater directly onto the tube and slip the grip on using your favorite glue as normal.
If you safety wire your grips be sure you don't have it so tight that it could cut into the grip and heater.
These warmers have more pwr going to the clutch side to compensate for the coldness of being directly on the bar, so we just put a later of tape on the bar for insulation.
axel99 wrote:What brand of grip warmers did you install?
Looks like Symtec.
Howard, how did you 'put' more power to the clutch side?? IE: Power from the yellow wire to the clutch side and power from white to the throttle (or vice-versa)?? Also if you did this wouldn't this change if/when you run your lights? Eg: if the right was hooked up to yellow and you turn the lights on it would reduce the amount of watts available to the grip heater?
The warmers have more loops on the clutch side and it "goes to 11"... An excellent system. Supposed to be automatic, maybe there is a resistor on the throttle side? Yes it's symtec axle99, but you don't need them with all the pushing you do...
The symtec heaters have 2 separate circuits for both sides with different resistance to accommodate the heat needed for the heat sucking clutch side and the plastic throttle tube. This means that the clutch side use more power for either the high and low setting than the throttle side.
eg, clutch side on the low setting uses 12 watts and throttle uses 9 watts. High would use 22 watts on the clutch and 14 on the throttle. These are completely random numbers. I have no idea what the actual power usage is other than, on high the total power use is 36 watts.
On high and at idle, my headlight dims a touch but once the revs come up, say above 1200rpm, it is back to its full brightness. My bike has the 2k3 stator. It is connected to the yellow wire. No battery on my bike.
The stator on most e-start bikes should put out around 100 watts at 2500 - 3000 rpm. Since your headlight uses about 35 watts and the grips use 36, there will still be some power left to charge your battery if you run above idle. It's a good thing I don't have a battery.
There are cheaper heaters available that only have one circuit in the heater and use a ballast resister in the wiring to allow a high and low setting. The ballast resistors tend to break but are easy and cheap to replace. The heaters are available at Can Tire for about $15 and replacement ballast resistors can be found at B&E electronics for ~$4 for a 2 pack.
I have had many of each type on my street bikes and for durability I recommend the symtec heater like what 37 has installed. They are more $$ BUT they don’t have a ballast resistor to break when you need them most.
Sorry, slight hijack here. What is the trick to installing grips easily? I find the clutch side easy but the throttle side is always a bear. I put those pillow tops on my 530 this past summer. (They're pretty comfy grips.) I put the grips in boiling water to try to soften them up but I still had a heck of a time installing the throttle grip.
Bark wrote:Sorry, slight hijack here. What is the trick to installing grips easily? I find the clutch side easy but the throttle side is always a bear. I put those pillow tops on my 530 this past summer. (They're pretty comfy grips.) I put the grips in boiling water to try to soften them up but I still had a heck of a time installing the throttle grip.
Did I mention that my 11 250XC is in?
Thanks,
Aaron
No heat required. No soapy water even required.
Use your air compressor. Seal one end of the bar with a rubber nozzle attachment on the air compressor, and blow some air into the bar while sliding the grip on to the opposite side. Then, cut the end off the installed grip (or punch a hole in it), and repeat for the other side. The grips slide right on like the bar isn't even there!
Bark wrote:Sorry, slight hijack here. What is the trick to installing grips easily? I find the clutch side easy but the throttle side is always a bear. I put those pillow tops on my 530 this past summer. (They're pretty comfy grips.) I put the grips in boiling water to try to soften them up but I still had a heck of a time installing the throttle grip.
Did I mention that my 11 250XC is in?
Thanks,
Aaron
I use windex. It allows it to slip on easily and because it is alcohol based it evaporates well afterword.
I've heard of the air method, but it seems like I wouldn't have enough hands to do it, also i would think that the air would blow out all over the place on the throttle side?
Compressed air is the easiest way to put on and take off. Less than a minute and no gruntwork.
No glue, nothing. Just put the safety wire around them and they will not move.
i used to think Symtek was best until they stopped working...again The heating elements are very thin and if they crack...no workie. i have gone back to the cheap THICK element heaters. i will look at CT and their choices as per Brass's post above. i am done with Symtek.
Symteks on my Berg lasted one year.
On my 950SER, lasted one month.
You hurt? You just want to optimize your performance? Step inside...http://spinalguy.com
The heating elements are very thin and if they crack...no workie. i have gone back to the cheap THICK element heaters. i will look at CT and their choices as per Brass's post above. i am done with Symtek.
