Mounting New Trelleborgs

MtnBlue · Post by **MtnBlue** » Sat Nov 19, 2005 6:59 pm

Ok I got the front on with some effort, but the rear is a beyotch

I've got one bead on the rim and the tube and valve stem in, but how in the hank to I get the rim locks back in. The tires are warm, and I'm using armourall for lube, but the carcass on these things are so stiff, I can't spread em' enough to get the rim locks back in. I've got to be doing something wrong here, any ideas. Having a shop do it is sounding pretty good right about now. I'm going for beer....that always helps

MotorEd · Post by **MotorEd** » Sat Nov 19, 2005 8:10 pm

Hey Chuck give me a ring at home...I have some tips that will save you some

503 1250

Post by **dirtyboy** » Sat Nov 19, 2005 9:26 pm

I have 2 rim locks.

I always start with the tube (with a bit of air in it) in the tire and the rim locks on the rim. Get the 1st rim lock in and the valve stem though the rim, then work the tire on both side up the other rim lock. That's the first side done.

Once the first side is in, start at one of the rim locks and work your way over to the other rim lock, pushing it in and work past it until the tire is mounted. Remember to keep the tire beed that is mounted down in the rim while you work on the other side to allow space for the tire to go over the rim. You have to be smarter than the tire, not stronger. No lube required until the tire is on and you pump it up to seat the beeds.

P.S. We had a great ride today at McLean. You definately needed studs to get around but there was lot's of nice dirt to crank it wide open on.

buggo · Post by **buggo** » Sun Nov 20, 2005 10:23 am

Are Studded tires really that expensive??
$290 each.... (in a past thread) scares me!
I have never needed studs where I came from, but Sharples 2 years ago scared the S*** outa me too! Downhill out of control

Are they the same tyre the ice racers use? How well do they wear? What are they, could a tyre store (that studs car tyres) do the same to a half worn knobbie?
I would like to keep riding this year, and maybe get some use out of them for Sharples next year. But I also heard studs were not allowed in the XC/HS races??

MotorEd · Post by **MotorEd** » Sun Nov 20, 2005 5:24 pm

Yes they are that expensive...but they will last much much longer than a rubber tire in the summer, so in my opinion they are way worth the $$

These tires are for off road only...ice racing tires have those 'cutter' screws in them.

Studded tires are allowed for H/S races but it depends on the race....ie you need to check with the race organizers prior to the race to see if they are allowed.

Its a great way to extend the season....and you wont believe the traction!!!

darren · Post by **darren** » Sun Nov 20, 2005 8:03 pm

MtnBlue wrote:Ok I got the front on with some effort, but the rear is a beyotch I've got one bead on the rim and the tube and valve stem in, but how in the hank to I get the rim locks back in. The tires are warm, and I'm using armourall for lube, but the carcass on these things are so stiff, I can't spread em' enough to get the rim locks back in. I've got to be doing something wrong here, any ideas. Having a shop do it is sounding pretty good right about now. I'm going for beer....that always helps

It definately takes a lot of effort and some blood! Take your time, it's like any other tire...just stiffer and with nice sharp spikes to poke you with. I actually had a WAY harder time with the front, so I guess we each have our difficulties! Finally I got a hand from a friend and we got it finished up in a snap. Dave has some good suggestions too.

Darren
333-4518

Novo · Post by **Novo** » Mon Nov 21, 2005 2:06 pm

Hi Chuck,

Glad to here I'm not the only newbie dripping blood.

Have a look at my earlier post re the GLOVES item

I strongly suggest not removing the rim locks per dirtyboy's post ... wish I had that knowledge a few weeks ago

and use 3 or 4 tires irons - curved ones.

On the bright side, once you have your new tires mounted

lets go for a ride

You'll be amazed at how well it works and extends your season! (especially considering the ski conditions)

MtnBlue · Post by **MtnBlue** » Mon Nov 21, 2005 5:47 pm

Novo wrote:Hi Chuck,

Glad to here I'm not the only newbie dripping blood.

Have a look at my earlier post re the GLOVES item

I strongly suggest not removing the rim locks per dirtyboy's post ... wish I had that knowledge a few weeks ago
and use 3 or 4 tires irons - curved ones.

On the bright side, once you have your new tires mounted lets go for a ride

You'll be amazed at how well it works and extends your season! (especially considering the ski conditions)

Didn't get scratched up too bad, more bruised then anything. With this weather, I've heard you don't even need them for Bar C(just Mclean, which closes soon). Ron I skied Sunday at the lake, Whitehorn 2 A through E gullie and ER 6, didn't hit a thing. It's as good as mid season, but the front

It's an adventure just getting back to the platter

Brent · Post by **Brent** » Mon Nov 21, 2005 7:23 pm

Dirtyboy, I'm with you on this one-instal the tube into the tire before you install, my hands are to big to be stuffing a big tube into the tight gap inbetween your rim and tire.
Slightly offset tire from rim with valve stem lined up with hole in rim. Push stem through hole, screw on nut, then start instaling tire onto rim from that point. Also, the rear tire can be mounted with the rim lock in place, lift the first bead over the rim lock when you have just started installing.
Your gonna love those new trelly's!

Post by **dirtyboy** » Mon Nov 21, 2005 7:32 pm

My wheels always have 2 rim locks on the rear. I just start at one rim lock and finish go up both sides so that I finish at the other rim lock. After the rubber is on 1 side, then I worry about getting the tire under the second rim lock. Same for the other side.

Rocky Mountain Dirt Riders

Mounting New Trelleborgs

Mounting New Trelleborgs

Re: Mounting New Trelleborgs