Evans Coolant
Evans Coolant
Does anyone know where I can get a hold of Evans Coolant in Calgary? Is there any dealers that sell it?
- crazy2wheeler
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Re: Evans Coolant
I have a gallon of it from last year that's never been opened. If you can't find it anywhere else you might be able to convince me to sell it.makedust wrote:Does anyone know where I can get a hold of Evans Coolant in Calgary? Is there any dealers that sell it?
Derek R - 2011 40A - #24A
ASORM - Alberta Society of Off-Road Motorcyclists
ASORM - Alberta Society of Off-Road Motorcyclists
- dirtyboy
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I typed evans in the search box and found this thread. I bet it has the answers you are looking for as there are a lot of posts in it.
viewtopic.php?t=634&highlight=evans
viewtopic.php?t=634&highlight=evans
- stubble_jumper16
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Re: Evans Coolant
I will buy 2 gallons if anyone is ordering Evans performance coolant...
Patch
Okotoks
Patch
Okotoks
Re: Evans Coolant
Blackfoot Direct!!
- erniebearskin
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Re: Evans Coolant
Yep, BFD has it in stock.
Re: Evans Coolant
Excellent!
Re: Evans Coolant
just make sure you run 1/2 a litre through your cooling system and then empty that out as well, before you fill it with Evan's. the idea is to completely remove all water/ethylene glycol from the cooling system, so just opening the drain plug once will not be enough as you will have some water mixture pooling in low spots. If there is a bit of residual water mixture left over that junk will still want to boil when the temps go up, the Evan's portion will not boil.
Re: Evans Coolant
Good info! I have issues with my 540sx cooling in the single track and I've tried everything else including mixing 50/50 race gas and shell lol (which works but not my first choice for cooling).
I will be testing Evans soon.
I will be testing Evans soon.
Re: Evans Coolant
Yikes, thats a beast for tight singletrack. Guessing its also a 4 speed which doesn't help. Evans will not boil - you'll melt that monster down before it does. Couple of things I would also do.
- If you have any plastic "Y"s at rad hose junctions get rid of them, they melt regardless of the coolant you're running on a big, hot running bike like yours. Get the silcone rad hoses that have the "Y" formed into the hose.
- I would hook up a temp gauge so you can monitor temps when things get tight & nasty. Like I said the Evans won't boil so
you want to monitor temps so that monster doesn't turn into a puddle of molten aluminum. At least you'll have a warning when you might just have to shut it off and have a sayonce for a while. At the very least I would run those stick on temp gauges on the side of your cylinder & rad. Carlos, the tech at BFD runs them, so they may have those in stock.
- If you have any plastic "Y"s at rad hose junctions get rid of them, they melt regardless of the coolant you're running on a big, hot running bike like yours. Get the silcone rad hoses that have the "Y" formed into the hose.
- I would hook up a temp gauge so you can monitor temps when things get tight & nasty. Like I said the Evans won't boil so
you want to monitor temps so that monster doesn't turn into a puddle of molten aluminum. At least you'll have a warning when you might just have to shut it off and have a sayonce for a while. At the very least I would run those stick on temp gauges on the side of your cylinder & rad. Carlos, the tech at BFD runs them, so they may have those in stock.
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Re: Evans Coolant
<Evans will not boil>
Well, it will - just not 'till 375 F / 190 C
I'm a fan, though - it can be run with low pressure caps so there isn't as much stress on the overall system, and propylene glycol stays stable longer than ethylene glycol, so you don't have to change it as often. (They say never, but I still change mine once a year.) It's also more efficient than ethylene glycol - on the power plants I help build, our scope occasionally includes system coolers, and liquid coolants are most efficient when the liquid just barely boils at the "nucleate" level - a few molecules stick together as a gas, then get swept off the surface and collapse back into liquid. It's when those groups of molecules get too large to collapse and join together instead that you get full-on steam boiling out the top - Evans is better at treading that thin line between the two. Even worse is when the bubbles don't get swept off the surface - they actually insulate the metal from the liquid. If you still have trouble even with Evans - get a bigger impeller to speed the flow a little.
Brent's point is right on, though - water (or left-over ethylene glycol) dilutes it and lowers the boiling temp. If you do have a problem on the trail, there's no danger in re-filling with water or conventional coolant, it just eliminates the advantage of using the Evans to begin with.
Well, it will - just not 'till 375 F / 190 C
I'm a fan, though - it can be run with low pressure caps so there isn't as much stress on the overall system, and propylene glycol stays stable longer than ethylene glycol, so you don't have to change it as often. (They say never, but I still change mine once a year.) It's also more efficient than ethylene glycol - on the power plants I help build, our scope occasionally includes system coolers, and liquid coolants are most efficient when the liquid just barely boils at the "nucleate" level - a few molecules stick together as a gas, then get swept off the surface and collapse back into liquid. It's when those groups of molecules get too large to collapse and join together instead that you get full-on steam boiling out the top - Evans is better at treading that thin line between the two. Even worse is when the bubbles don't get swept off the surface - they actually insulate the metal from the liquid. If you still have trouble even with Evans - get a bigger impeller to speed the flow a little.
Brent's point is right on, though - water (or left-over ethylene glycol) dilutes it and lowers the boiling temp. If you do have a problem on the trail, there's no danger in re-filling with water or conventional coolant, it just eliminates the advantage of using the Evans to begin with.
Re: Evans Coolant
"Well, it will - just not 'till 375 F / 190 C"
Correct. I guess I should have clarified I was talking about Dirt bike engine's. So like I said Patrick it will not boil in your bike as your motor will be toast and give up the ghost long before Evans coolant starts boiling out the rad. When coolant temps get up around 300 F, its time to shut the bike off.
Correct. I guess I should have clarified I was talking about Dirt bike engine's. So like I said Patrick it will not boil in your bike as your motor will be toast and give up the ghost long before Evans coolant starts boiling out the rad. When coolant temps get up around 300 F, its time to shut the bike off.