Rad fixin'

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thirtyseven
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Rad fixin'

Post by thirtyseven »

Im sure this has been covered somewhere in here before, but has any one had any luck with someone in town who can untweak a tweaked rad? Its still in relatively good shape just quite a bit narrower than it was prior to the start of the X/c

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birdseye
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Waxy
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Post by Waxy »

If you don't have any luck with someone in town, try Mylers. http://www.motorcycleradiators.com/

I sent the rad off my DRZ down there and had it back in a week. The work was top notch and it was cheap.

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cedric
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Post by cedric »

If it's not leaking, I would leave it alone and find a new rad on E-Bay over the winter. It will cost you the better part of $100 to get it fixed (that's what mine cost at Tops anyway), and you can probably get a new (used) one for that much and then still have a spare.

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thirtyseven
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Post by thirtyseven »

Cedric, u know me I cant do ebay, way beyond me.

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Post by Ynot303 »

Thirty Seven... you should be very careful with E-bay... it has many wonderful things for Yamahas and it is highly addictive :banana:

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cedric
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Post by cedric »

Which side do you need?

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Brent
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Post by Brent »

if it aint broke don't fix it! as soon as you untweak it, you will bend it again. F it, pin it!
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thirtyseven
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Post by thirtyseven »

got the brace bent out enough so some cooling air will get in, thanks for all the advice...

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Brent
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Post by Brent »

I used to go to City Radiator just North of Blackfoot Cycle on blackfoot trail. they fixed my rad in under a week and i think the cost was around a $100. good luck.
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thirtyseven
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Post by thirtyseven »

Im going with your previous advice Bigdog. If it didnt leak last night it never will.

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WRocks
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Post by WRocks »

If it's not leaking, here's a good trick I use, as I got tired of taking rads to a shop for straightening.

1) drain and flush rad with water then air to purge out water
2) heat rad with a paint stripper gun untile the rad starts to steam (you'll need to wear gloves)
3) carefully "untweak" rad, you can put it in a vice with soft jaws to take out twists, or use a rubber mallet on the corners if is it's trapezoided. If the side is caved in, carefully use a hammer and long thin punch to work the outter rad edge. I'd make a jig to hold the rad for this

These things are quite flexible when they are hot, which is why they usually don't leak when you crash, unless punctured. I have "untweaked" about 6 rads so far and none have leaked after, but you have to be careful and take your time. If it has a leak, a rad shop is basically the only way, but think they are a rip off...

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Brent
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Post by Brent »

really cool advice, i will try on my twisted rad. also, for slow leaks put some pepper in the rad fluid, this will get sucked into the small leak hole and stop it.

there is also a product called "Steely Putty" or something like that. it is 2 separate tubes and when the chemicals are mixed they create a pretty tuff metal that seams to stick, even onto wet metal. i have repaired one of my rads in the rain where the fluid was leaking and it pretty much stopped the leak and held for 3 months. i purchased this product from Home Hardware, but i have seen it around lots of stores.
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WRocks
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Post by WRocks »

That steel putty is great stuff, I carry a good set of tools and on the trail, but have found the steel putty has been the handiest thing this year. I haven't had to use it on my bike yet...lol, but have fixed a hole in clutch cover, hole in radiator (twice) and even a broken clutch lever with it. Best thing is we were able to keep riding and finish the ride we wanted to do. It's certainly has saved a lot of greif on the trail.
The stuiff i used (can't remember the name) looks like a sausage with an inner and outter compound, you rip off a piece and work it like play doh until is mixed well, from there you have about 10 minutes of working time before it sets up (less if the piece you are fixing is hot).
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