Rocky Mountain Dirt Riders

Anyone running them / tried them?
I'm seriously considering one for the Beta, just looking for input!

I have tried it on a KTM, you will loose some clutch disengagement due to the different leverage ratio. It is easier to pull but you have to pull the lever in more to get the same disengagement as the stock lever. I preferred the stock lever.

I use one and have for three years. I found that the Rekluse with the belville spring really stiffened the clutch pull, and I went to Rekluse due to difficulties with my wrist / hand / nerves / stalling / crashing / sucking / exhaustion so I wanted the softest pull I could get.

With the torque of the 350, the Rekluse does pretty well all of the work so I essentially only use the lever to shift. Modulation range of the clutch (from full engaged to full disengaged) is theoretically "longer" but the shape and position necessitated by the geometry of the clever lever sort of works against that. It is not a very smooth modulation action, but it works great as an "on/off" switch.

The other data point is I put one on my wife's FE250 (also with Rekluse) and she could not get used to it - she preferred the "stiffer" stock lever. Come to think of it, I bought that MME lever from trailguy... maybe it is just a dud?

Your Mileage May Vary

I had on on my 14 TE250, worked ok but if I really abused the clutch the engagement point moved and it slipped - not sure if related to the Midwest lever or just a general clutch issue. So far not required on my 15XC. Ride a jap cable clutch for a bit and you wont complain about the KTM hydraulic at all. You will have no problem re-selling it locally if you don't like it.

Thanks all for the input!
I find the Beta 300rr has a way easier pull than my WR450 did. like 1/4 the effort even with the easy pull clutch i had on it. I like using the clutch. is the engagement that noticeable? or lever travel? I may just take the leap and try one out.

I used one as well but I could never really get past the flat lever.

scubarusteve wrote:I may just take the leap and try one out.

If it fits, I have an extra Brembo 2C (2013-2016) you are welcome to try.

Tried some washers on the clutch spring retaining bolts to reduce the preload on them? Suppose to lighten it up a noticeable amount.

I have not tried the washer mod yet, I may try that over the winter months.
Robert i may take you up on that offer in the spring or if my riding area clears of snow.

Thank you!

I tried it and didn't like the engagement of it. My 7yr old daughter(at the time) could pull the clutch in, but it never felt right. You have to be careful on adjustment with them. They run on the edge of slipping and if you get the clutch hot on a hill climb it just gets worse until you stop and back out the set screw.

I ran one on my 2012 350 XCF and still have it kicking around some where. The pull is lighter on my 2016 350 XCF, so I never felt the need for it.

It's finicky, but works. Takes awhile to get it perfectly adjusted - you're supposed to have your bike fully warmed up before you do. On my 2012, I either really had to let the bike warm up before taking off or give it a push start before clicking into gear, otherwise it would always die when I first took off. It reduces how far you are pushing the clutch plates apart.

Dobi wrote:I tried it and didn't like the engagement of it. My 7yr old daughter(at the time) could pull the clutch in, but it never felt right. You have to be careful on adjustment with them. They run on the edge of slipping and if you get the clutch hot on a hill climb it just gets worse until you stop and back out the set screw.

Yes this was exactly my problem. Although I was dragged around the old DM race loop with a chainsaw on my front fender, that we used umm, once.