Clake-one lever

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SpecialK
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Clake-one lever

Post by SpecialK »

Hi friends, I'm looking into the clake-one lever system, just curious if anyone has tried it, what are your thoughts?

I'm interested because my hands are small and it seems the stretching and reaching whilst clutching has done enough damage that its now impacting my riding. Would really love to try one before buying.


TIA
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Bark
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Re: Clake-one lever

Post by Bark »

I haven't tried the Clake but I have tried the Midwest Mountain Engineering clutch lever. I really like it. Its a one finger clutch most of the time until your finger starts to get fatigue, then two fingers are needed. I don't know if that is something that would work for you.

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SpecialK
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Re: Clake-one lever

Post by SpecialK »

Bark wrote:I haven't tried the Clake but I have tried the Midwest Mountain Engineering clutch lever. I really like it. Its a one finger clutch most of the time until your finger starts to get fatigue, then two fingers are needed. I don't know if that is something that would work for you.
No I don't think so, its not the weight of the pull that is causing problems, its how far my hand has to stretch which has put a lot of added strain to my thumb. Its a good thought though, i was originally looking at them but now a lighter clutch won't fix it. :)
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cedric
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Re: Clake-one lever

Post by cedric »

You have tried adjusting your stock lever all the way towards the bar, right?

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350scott
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Re: Clake-one lever

Post by 350scott »

Unfortunately I don't believe the Clake One reduces the clutch lever travel (i.e. reach), which I believe is what you are looking for. I'd add if reducing lever travel is what you are looking for, you definitely don't want the Midwest lever as it reduces pull force by increasing the lever travel (basically it just changes lever angles vs stock). Without changing master and/or slave cylinders the only way to decrease the lever travel is by increasing the pull force (unless you make internal changes in your clutch).

I'd suggest a Rekluse Core (understanding you may not want to use one). It will reduce the number of times you need to pull the lever and can be set up to reduce pull length at lower RPM's. Regardless, I'd suggest calling Clake for their advice, they might even be able to custom manufacture a master cylinder set up to meet your needs (I called them several years ago and they were easy to talk with and very knowledgeable).
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SpecialK
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Re: Clake-one lever

Post by SpecialK »

350scott wrote:Unfortunately I don't believe the Clake One reduces the clutch lever travel (i.e. reach), which I believe is what you are looking for. I'd add if reducing lever travel is what you are looking for, you definitely don't want the Midwest lever as it reduces pull force by increasing the lever travel (basically it just changes lever angles vs stock). Without changing master and/or slave cylinders the only way to decrease the lever travel is by increasing the pull force (unless you make internal changes in your clutch).

I'd suggest a Rekluse Core (understanding you may not want to use one). It will reduce the number of times you need to pull the lever and can be set up to reduce pull length at lower RPM's. Regardless, I'd suggest calling Clake for their advice, they might even be able to custom manufacture a master cylinder set up to meet your needs (I called them several years ago and they were easy to talk with and very knowledgeable).
Yes 350scott you definitely hit the nail on the head, its the reach to the lever I am trying to adjust without impacting effectiveness of the clutch engagement.
Plus, like you said, the levers on the market (like the midwest lever) just increase the distance and that is not helpful in my case haha

I'm surprised the clake-one doesn't fix this reach issue, on the site it made it seem like that was the point of it, well that and decrease clutch pull.
I'll do what you've suggested and call to clarify :thumbsup:
I'll also look into the rekluse, (Josh is going to laugh if I finally give in and get one) I'm really reluctant but it might just be the only way to move forward in my situation.
Thanks for your response! :thumbsup:
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Brass
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Re: Clake-one lever

Post by Brass »

Krissy wrote:Hi friends, I'm looking into the clake-one lever system, just curious if anyone has tried it, what are your thoughts?
The Clake One, is designed to be used with a Rekluse. It applies the clutch and then the brake as the lever is pulled in.

Perhaps you meant the Clake One Light Clutch, which is an assisted clutch lever? I have this one on my bike and like the lighter lever to help out with my elbow strain but it doesn't change the lever travel at all. All it does is offer an adjustable spring assist to help lighten the lever pull. With the spring preload dialed up, the lever effort is less than my trials bike. A great product and very well made but from your description, not what you're looking for.

That said, Owen at Clake is great to deal with and I'm sure would be happy to try to help you out. Call him up and tell him what you need.

Good luck.

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SpecialK
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Re: Clake-one lever

Post by SpecialK »

Brass wrote:
Krissy wrote:Hi friends, I'm looking into the clake-one lever system, just curious if anyone has tried it, what are your thoughts?
The Clake One, is designed to be used with a Rekluse. It applies the clutch and then the brake as the lever is pulled in.

Perhaps you meant the Clake One Light Clutch, which is an assisted clutch lever? I have this one on my bike and like the lighter lever to help out with my elbow strain but it doesn't change the lever travel at all. All it does is offer an adjustable spring assist to help lighten the lever pull. With the spring preload dialed up, the lever effort is less than my trials bike. A great product and very well made but from your description, not what you're looking for.

That said, Owen at Clake is great to deal with and I'm sure would be happy to try to help you out. Call him up and tell him what you need.

Good luck.
Yeah I meant the clake one light, I didn't notice there was another one haha
Thanks for the info!
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Re: Clake-one lever

Post by axel99 »

If your bars are cut down more than 3/8" on each side, this can push the lever farther from the bars. As you move the the clutch master cylinder closer to the bend in the bars, I find the lever tends to get pushed farther from the grip. Try keeping your weight on the outside of the palm when standing, I find it gives my thumbs a rest and creates less aggrivation in the nerves.
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Re: Clake-one lever

Post by Dobi »

don't be afraid to heat a lever up and bend it with a vice and hammer to get it closer to the bars. these clutches don't need too much stroke to disengage.

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Re: Clake-one lever

Post by Dobi »

I saw these in a magazine the other day and have considered them for my daughters CR 70. Not sure of the logistics to get it to mount up to a KTM, but it can't be that hard. May help with a small hand issue....

http://www.protaper.com/can_english/con ... -1301.html

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cedric
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Re: Clake-one lever

Post by cedric »

That makes me think...Would it be worth trying to mount a master cylinder/lever from an 85/105? Are they actually any smaller vs. the full size bikes?

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SpecialK
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Re: Clake-one lever

Post by SpecialK »

Thanks guys. I'm going to buy some softer grips to help with impact, and try bending the lever in the mean time. I think ill be going with a rekluse when I can afford it, it's good to now I can clutch as I normally would but on a long x-country I can let go from time to time, but also move the lever closer without risk of stalling. :thumbsup:
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Re: Clake-one lever

Post by MrHermit »

I struggled with the reach on the stock levers as well and ended up buying some of the aftermarket KTM & Husky anodized levers which have more reach adjustment than the stock levers do. Just another option to look at.

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Re: Clake-one lever

Post by SpecialK »

Hooligan wrote:
Krissy wrote:Thanks guys. I'm going to buy some softer grips to help with impact, and try bending the lever in the mean time. I think ill be going with a rekluse when I can afford it, it's good to now I can clutch as I normally would but on a long x-country I can let go from time to time, but also move the lever closer without risk of stalling. :thumbsup:
While you can clutch normally with a Rekluse, you will quickly come to the conclusion that there is no point. Every once in a while I will use the clutch to make a shift, but for the most part I will do complete rides without ever touching the clutch lever.

There is always a reason to clutch :thumbsup:
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2009 KTM 250 XCW
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