Clutch/Transmission Issue?

[sthomps]

Hey,

I'm currently experiencing shift issues my 2014 Husky TE250, and not really sure what would cause them. Hoping there are some folks on here that can give their insight.

When I first bought this bike it had a super draggy clutch, so much so that it was unridable because you would have to the pull the clutch lever right to the bar or the bike would drag itself forward. In my opinion you should never have to take all your fingers off the bar to pull the lever in far enough to disengage a clutch. After determining that the pressure plate would lift unevenly, I bought a new bellevillle spring thinking it may be the spring being the issue. This did improve things considerably with only slight drag when the the lever is pulled in to your knuckles.

Unfortunately I still have issues where, at times when trying to shift from second to first it will only hit neutral. You can imagine during a race (or any time for that matter) its a massive inconvenience, especially in those last ditch moments on a terrible hill climb gone sideways. At first I thought maybe I'm being a powder puff and not depressing the shifter enough, but there have been times where I'll stomp on it and max out the travel and it still goes into neutral. In addition, when trying to shift it into neutral, you have to blip the throttle to break the plates loose before in will upshift into neutral. There has been some times where it also won't fully go into second gear and pop out of gear after a distance.

I've tried different gearbox oils and weights from 0W40 to 20W50 but it doesn't make a noticeable difference.

In closing, anyone have a guess or opinion on the causes of these issues? Still a draggy clutch issue or a shift fork/claw issue?

Thanks

[giantjoe]

The Italian huskys had that issue as well. (I know it a completely different design) it stemmed from the shift claw. There was a set screw that wasn't tightened properly from the factory and the shifting would just up and quit on you one day. It's not too hard to get in there, might be worth a look.

[Brass]

At a guess I would think it's from the still dragging clutch.

Did you buy the bike new or used? If used, when you replaced the Bellville washer did you see any signs that the clutch had been worked on before? I'm asking because if it was used it may have had a Rekluse that was removed before you bought it. If that was the case, check the spacers on the end of the clutch pushrod since the Rekluse changes it.

Its rare to see clutch or tranny problems on those bikes.

[sthomps]

I bought the bike new so the clutch has been an issue from the day I got it. I should mention the clutch hydraulic system has been bled to see if that would help at all but it made no change. As for checking the shift claw, if its not too much work I'll dive into that tonight and see if anything looks abnormal.

If it is a dragging clutch issue due to DDS design (localized to my bike only) then I'm tempted to go and buy a Rekluse Core Manual. Maybe the switch back to the 6 spring design would resolve it.

[Brass]

Well it was a thought.

Try taking the clutch cover off and measuring the amount the clutch moves when you pull the lever in. That may help to find where the problem is.

Good luck with it.

[malcolmzilla]

Have you bled the hydraulic clutch? I like to remove the slave, clamp it, then pressure bleed it. Perhaps you're a bit short on throw at the slave/piston? Just a thought. Good call tryin other oil weights. Have you tried ATF? My magic snake oil!

[sthomps]

I had the dealer bleed the hydraulics. I believe it was a pressure bleed but it certainly worth another try. If there isn't enough throw that would explain a lot. I've never tried ATF before, just wet clutch compatible motorcycle oil (Motul and Amsoil) Any particular brand/weight?

[Wangchung]

I had 3 warped steel plates in my 525 MXC from the factory. Clutch wouldn't totally disengage.
I replace just those 3 plates and clutch worked flawless for years.

[sthomps]

I'll have another look at all the plates and see if any are warped.

[sthomps]

Well the clutch is perfectly fine. It has something to do with the transmission. Its super notchy and while on a stand spinning the wheel you can see it jam up. Definitely not the shift shaft assembly eother. I grabbed a video of it so I'll put it back together and sent it off to cycle works. Maybe they can sort it out. There are numerous posts out there on the KTM forums about this very problem, not many solutions though but maybe KTM has a solution..

If they do have to split the case then its a good excuse to put the xc first and second gears in and be rid of the annoying ultra wide ratio gearbox.