See this post: viewtopic.php?f=22&t=4990 for info about equipment required and tire options for winter riding!
(there is LOTS of info here in last years post, and this makes more sense than re-posting it all)
I've had sevearl sets of Trelleborgs, I've had a set of Michelins. I think the trellies are worth the additional cost over the Michelins. I've found that I can get 2 - 3 seasons out of a set of trellies (riding fairly aggressively, in the rocky conditions we have around here in the foothills and eastern rockies), riding 1-2 times per month from December to April. By the end of the 3rd season the trellies are pretty trashed - the studs themselves are fine, but the knobs are chunking badly and breaking off.
Riding more sheepishly – particularly by avoiding any rocks/rocky areas they’ll probably last you 5 years or more (requires too much discipline for me – I don’t want to forego a ride because there are gonna be rocky sections).
It used to be the only options were the low end screws, or the pre-built trelleborgs.
For people who are "frugal" like me (or even downright cheap like Red Green) - and want the performance of the high end tires, but want to get the full lifespan from their studs/tires there are these studs.
Myself and a few others have been running the BestGrip studs for about 5 years. As of last year, about 20 local guys and about 20 others around the province/rocky mountains are also on them. Feedback is consistently excellent. The guys using them include Brent Kroeker (pro), Marty Halmazna (pro), Shane Cuthbertson (pro), Dirtyboy, BigR, Zeal, etc...
Bestgrip stud
Studs installed (rear)
- BestGrip2.jpg (48.8 KiB) Viewed 2292 times
Magnetic Installation Bit
After 1240 miles (on concrete, pavement and snow/ice)
Cross Section
The studs are very similar in appearance to trelli studs when installed. Because of their screw-anchor design, it is very difficult to tear a stud out, making the tires virtually as durable as trellies. The studs wear as well as the trelli studs – both are tungsten carbide tipped, traction and grip is very close as well. The main difference is these studs can be removed from a tire that is chunking, and installed in a fresh tire.
AND, next year or the following year, and again in a later year, you can have an essentially NEW set of studded tires for only $120. The only cost is for new rubber, because you can spin the studs out of the tire that's falling apart and just screw them into new rubber (these studs are carbide tipped - so they are durable, and RE-USEABLE).
Pricing is $0.92/stud, and $10.50 for the installation tool (+GST). Front tire studs and rear tire studs are NOT the same. Trellies have about 350 studs in the rear, and approx 250 studs in the front. We’ve typically been using about 250 (250-300) studs for a front, and 300 (250-300) in the rear.
Below are the typical costs:
300 rear tire studs ($276)
+ 250 front tire studs ($230)
+ 2 installation bits ($10.50 each)
= $527 + gst = $553.35 (Deposit of $350, or you can pay all at once if it's less hassle for ya, which is also easier for me). Deposits are non-refundable, and purchases are non-returnable (I'm no WalMart!!). Orders must be in multiples of 50.
Last year Bow Cycle was selling these studs for $125 for a bag of 100 studs. If you're interested in this kind of winter tire, you won't pay less than getting them through me.
In my opinion if someone has lots of money to throw around, buy the trellies - but for the rest of us this is the only way to go - similar or better performance, much less cost, way longer useable life.
NOTE that I've been using 2 different variations of these studs:
1. Longer studs - what we used exclusively for the first 3 years - these are best for snow deeper than a few inches, and for ice (these studs are like those in a trelleborg winter friction tire). For the longer studs, we use a different 'long' stud for each of the front and the rear.
*** If someone is wanting to build a rear tire with the maximum number of 'long' studs possible, let me know as we will use the front long studs, in the rear tire as well (allows more studs per knob to be installed)
2. Shorter studs - these protrude from the rubber only about half as far as the 'long' studs. The advantage: the bike rides pretty much like it does on just rubber. I call these my "shoulder season" studs. They are great for when the ground is frozen, and there is some snow and ice - but not consistently deep snow. They are "sketchier" on slippery surfaces than the long studs, but they also slide a little more easily, which can be good if that's what you are wanting your wheels to do! I had a lot of fun on these studs last year - they are fantastic in ruts as they don't try to climb out of them. However, other than for riders with Advanced skill (ie - I don't qualify!), I wouldn't recommend these to be your only set of studded tires! (Kroeker rides these even in the deep snow!)
I may or may not be placing more than one order this year. To be sure you will get studs, place your order with me ASAP. (PM me, or give me a call)
Derek Radomski 403.714.7440
See this post for more info on installation: viewtopic.php?f=3&t=5185
