Ad blocker detected: Our website is made possible by displaying online advertisements to our visitors. Please consider supporting us by disabling your ad blocker on our website.
dirtyboy wrote:[quote="Dobi]I've got a 164cm Ride Mountain series board that has more p-tex filler than original base that is staring me down everytime I step in the garage.
How do you get the ptex to stay in that much? The ptex usually drops out or wears faster than the rest of the base on my board. [/quote]
I heat the gash with my soldering iron before applying ptex. I think it kind of makes it like getting penetration on a weld and bonds it better. I have a few nasty holes that I have fixed this way. It works well, but after a few good beatings needs a small touch up.
As a ski tech for many years, here's my method. First of all cut the sides of your core shot with an exacto knife, so they are nice and smooth. Try to undercut the base a little. Clean the core shot area. If it's really big, use some crazy glue or epoxy on the core material before you lay in the ptex. Also ptex in candle form is alright for small gouges, but it's a soft material. In our shop we use a ptex material provided by wintersteiger that is applied by a gun. It's much harder. If you're in Banff I'll do your skis for Beer!!! I only work Thursday nights at the shop, so let me know ahead of time. This thread has really been hijacked
I usually heat it all up with a blowtorch, that way you avoid the black carbon bits in your repair. But it's still not all that tough.
Best just to jump over all the rocks in the first place, if you can, and buy a board (or skis, if you go that way) with a tough sintered base that can take a beating. I have an Option Signature 167 with the black base and I'm amazed at how many rocks it has laughed off. That is one tough board.
cedric wrote:I usually heat it all up with a blowtorch, that way you avoid the black carbon bits in your repair. But it's still not all that tough.
.
I use a combination of Mtnblues prep and a small torch for the ptex heating. It is not 100% fool proof as I have a small area on my board where the base has seperated from the core due to excessive heat . I have a friend who was/is a factory tech for atomic sponsored GS racers and the first time I took my board over to him to show me how to do a better job of waxing he was mortified at the job that I had been doing. It truly makes a difference with some good wax and a clean work bench vs the welding bench in the shop When that fails I take it in to COP and pay them to do a complete service on it.
Should we modify the RMDR logo to incorporate a chair lift?
cedric wrote:I usually heat it all up with a blowtorch, that way you avoid the black carbon bits in your repair. But it's still not all that tough.
.
I use a combination of Mtnblues prep and a small torch for the ptex heating. It is not 100% fool proof as I have a small area on my board where the base has seperated from the core due to excessive heat . I have a friend who was/is a factory tech for atomic sponsored GS racers and the first time I took my board over to him to show me how to do a better job of waxing he was mortified at the job that I had been doing. It truly makes a difference with some good wax and a clean work bench vs the welding bench in the shop When that fails I take it in to COP and pay them to do a complete service on it.
Should we modify the RMDR logo to incorporate a chair lift?
Oh yeah and I forgot. It helps if you have a $100,000 Wintersteiger at your disposal, with a ceramic disc edger. Do ya want fast ski's!!??:devil:
MtnBlue wrote:Also ptex in candle form is alright for small gouges, but it's a soft material. In our shop we use a ptex material provided by wintersteiger that is applied by a gun.
I think that is the issue. I have to use the candles. I started taking in the skis when I get a bad one in the base and fixing the smaller ones myself.
I use the propane torch and heat it all up a bit (otherwise the base separates).
I like the comment about flying over the rocks also. Sometimes it works and other times it is easier said than done. My big core shots always come from powder days where the rocks aren't showing.
After decades of extreme vertical, you develop an intuition for reading terrain that saves your ski's ... most of the time.
When that fails, I've learnt that its best to take the damaged ski's to a pro with the right tools and loads of experience.
A perfectly tuned set of ski's is
Why am I getting the feeling that our back country dirt bike riding group is going to be flying (litterly) down the slopes together
with long plumes of powder floating along behind our helmets !!!
[/quote]
. I have a friend who was/is a factory tech for atomic sponsored GS racers and the first time I took my board over to him to show me how to do a better job of waxing he was mortified at the job that I had been doing. It truly makes a difference with some good wax and a clean work bench vs the welding bench in the shop 
